I must mention Rhonda at Comfort Inn in Corsicana. She went out of her way to give me the perfect room where my bike could be seen right outside my window and she gave me a special rate to help the charity along. Thanks Rhonda.
Monday April 21st I left pretty late as I was daft enough to open my Outlook...emails galore of course. The ride to Houston was pretty hot but I stuck it out. I had too much in my backpack so the usual reassuring feel of an old friend patting my back became a bear hug from a Sumo wrestler. Time to try another packing configuration. I met a couple from Houston en route. They were riding a BMW touring bike and Brittanie gave me her card as she wanted to follow the blogs. Her card said rulebrittaniea.org. I had to sing a bar from Rule Britannia...
I was amazed as I approached Houston. The myriad of over-passes and fly-overs from the spaghetti junctions was surreal. As I crested a rise I saw the cluster of lego-block offices scratching at the hot sky to mark the downtown area for all to see. I peeled left onto I10 and skipped that metal and glass metropolis for the river-strewn flatlands of Louisiana. The moment I entered Louisiana the roads deteriorated into third world status. Every 10 feet a section of the concrete highway lifted or tilted or sank and the rythm of my big tyres was like a train. It was so extreme that I had to stand on the footpegs for miles as the R1 bucked and rocked back and forth at a ferocious pace. It reminded me of Charlie Boorman's description of the ridged african roads that literally exploded their BMW rear shocks. I thought I would go mad with the pounding. I quit at Jennings LA and booked into a motel. At the local petrol station / food shop I met Jay the security guard. With a big gun and a bigger grin he bought me a local Cajun treat. Boudin balls. Sort of a cross between a Scotch Egg and Onion Bajees. I have no idea what they were made from but they were delicious! Thanks Jay! here's your photo.
Tuesday April 22nd I rode the I10 and US90 all the way to New Orleans. It was my day off so I only rode 215 miles. In a little over 500 miles I had gone from every riverbed without water to water everywhere. As I stared over the edge of the 90 at the everglade style forests I realised there was no land. Just water. I stopped on the outskirts of Lafayette and snapped a side street and an old house. The last 20 miles into New Orleans were very tough. The steamy heat, the terrible roads, traffic lights all the way and just a vague memory to keep heading East into the heart of Nawlins. Once here I soon remembered my way round and by 6pm my bike was in a carpark ($10 a night! In the UK bikes are free everywhere! Mind you, we don't have Harleys the size of 18 wheelers), I was in a hotel and heading out after a cool shower to listen to great guitarists in crummy bars with cheap Budweiser beer. I kicked back and listened as a girl with wild, curly blond hair belted out rock songs in a voice like Janice Joplin. That girl could sing! No photos allowed indoors though so you'll have to use your imagination.
Walking home I saw a drunk who looked like Jack Nicholson push over a fence. I was stopped by Larry the emaciated ex-Marine begging for coins. I gave him what I had. I had bought some southern fried chicken and we shared stories and chicken pieces. I wanted to know why he was begging. He said his whole pension was handed over to his ex-wife and kids. Apparently she dumped him for another guy whilst he was in Afghanistan. He lives in a tent under a bridge. He wasn't bitter but he was hungry. He tries to beg for $10 a day to eat. He kept calling me Sir. I told him I wasn't knighted and he laughed. "Habit Sir" he said. Then suddenly Jack Nicholson appears screaming and swearing at weedy little Larry. He claimed he was a true Marine and Larry should fight him there and then. We just walked away and Larry told me that when the guy was sober he was a very nice guy. I later saw Jack handcuffed with blood all over his head. I guess someone obliged him. The arresting officer looked bored.
Today I spent catching up on emails. And some sleep. Mobile Alabama tomorrow.
A HUGE thank you to those who have donated to the kids. $425 so far. Just $34,575 to go...
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